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Could you ask for anything more?
Entire lost cities, ruined temples, sacred caves, centuries-old murals
Five of Sri Lankas seven UNESCO World heritage sites are contained within the ‘Cultural triangle’ but you could feel ‘ruined-out’ if you attempt to reach them all. A nifty way to exclude Colombo altogether, is to head cross -country from Negombo directly to Dambulla, then explore Kandy on your return. This route enables you to visit majestic13th C rock fortress of Yapahuwa which soars 90 m heavenwards with a stone stairway ornamented in Chinese lion sculptures and carvings. Nearby at Panduvasnuwara a 12th century palace kept Princess Citra a prisoner. The cave-temples at Dambulla, a veritable store-house of Sinhala art and vibrant murals are best visited before the sun heats up the rock, as you enter minus shoes. Take cotton socks to insulate burn underfoot.
Anuradhapura the ancient Capitol to a succession of 113 kings, was begun around 500 BC. This will occupy a whole day, before you include nearby Mihintale (seat of Buddhism since 3rd C) and appeals to scholars of Architecture. Unless you’ve had time to read up on it before or need to immerse yourself in ruins, opt for;
Polonnaruwa, the medieval Capitol further east, easier to reach and closer to Sigiriya Rock Fortress, considered 8th Wonder of the World. The Ritigala caves & monastry are within the Ritigala Reserve; Minneria National Park where the Elephant Gathering takes place is also near. The ruins of the city of Polonnaruwa spread over a large area amidst woods but can be explored on bikes and has one of the best Museums in the country which demonstrates how buildings looked in their prime . Return to Kandy via Aluvihare, a monastery where Buddhist doctrines were first committed to paper (Ola leaf). The Temple of the Tooth reflecting its lights in the Kandy lake is a fitting grand finale; best visited just before the 7p.m. pooja when its lit like Harrods, while hypnotic tom-toms and barefoot devotees taking baskets of lotus blossom add to the charge.
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